Laos’ Best Kept Secret
Our story begins in the far flung yet charming town of Luang Prabang. To me, this town is the epitome of what South East Asia is all about. After spending 8 strange hours aboard a very compact sleeper bus from Laos’ capital Vientiane, we arrived at this quaint and quiet town in high spirits despite the lack of sleep. I couldn’t point my finger on it yet but I knew then that there was something quite enchanting about it.
I have been warned that the bus could be bothersome for the claustrophobic but it wasn’t until saw the bunk beds in front of me that I understood what it meant. These were single-sized beds supposed to be shared by two people on each level on each side.
It was uncomfortable to say the least but an interesting way to start the adventure.
Driving an hour away southwest from Luang Prabang, we reached the majestic scenery of Kuang Si.
The waterfalls continued to flow a hundred meters away from the towering slopes painted with fine white streaks. The waters poured in every direction it could find as if hastily wanting to escape the raving stream on top.
The waters were ice cold but it didn't weaken my adrenaline rush to jump off the tree, splashing my way to a 5-foot deep river at the foot of Kuang Si. Just as soon as I dropped in the water, fishes swam nibbling the soles of my feet. Tickled, I ran to the shore.
Following an exhaustingly fun affair at Kuang Si, the Utopia was the perfect place to regain the energy and just renew my senses, relax in an open space to breathe fresh air overlooking the Nam Khan river directly connected to the mighty Mekong.
I found myself a spot at the river deck. Yoga would have been a better option but I settled for a cold bottle of beer and a good read while waiting for the sun to set. Time has never flown so slow and resigning to the moment was just rejuvenating.
Later that night, I endeavored to hit the night market and find the alley of vegetarian buffets.
Luang Prabang is popular to vegetarian backpackers because of the unlimited and cheap choices for food. The buffet costs less than 2 US Dollars and the variety was overwhelming, I might as well turn vegetarian.
It was a modest alleyway roofed with thin layers still. But you get to share wholesome food with strangers turned friends while sitting in the middle of a busy and cramped dining area but at that point, nothing could really bother me and my plate full of vegetables.
Whilst at the night market, it was inevitable to go on a shopping spree which to me is one of the many things that defines Asia. Night markets roots back to the medieval Chinese Tang dynasty and it has evolved and has spread out towards the continent since then. I thought it’s always a good place to know the locals a bit closer.
The Lao people are probably the easiest to deal with when you want to haggle for a good price, I’ve never encountered a more courteous group of vendors who doesn’t force a bargain on you. That and the added bonus of accepting US dollars meant no additional hassle.
The following morning was one of the moments I have always looked forward to experience. Traveling to me is not all about the hotels, the pictures, the food. It’s mostly about cultural immersion, understanding other’s ways of lives and learning from it. Almsgiving to the monks known as the Tak Bat ceremony was such a special moment I wish I could relive plenty of times.
The alarm didn’t go off that morning and I woke up 15 minutes before the morning routine of the local monks. I got up in a jiffy, grabbed my hoodie and pulled my bike from the rack. I hurried to the monks’ route as it was considered rude to be late although I think it applies in every circumstance. It was 5 am and the sun was just about to break, I sat along the curbside of the street, tucked my feet underneath my body as per tradition and remained still and silent.
A line of men dressed in safron robes started to ascend to our direction following their meditation. I silently offered them food and placed it inside their lidded bowls, subtly bowing as a sign of respect and avoiding both eye contact and touching them, things I was told not to do. In Buddhist traditions, this is a spiritual activity where the monks depend on the locals for their sustenance to be able to continue with their vows. This activity is practised throughout the country but Luang Prabang is particularly a special place because this town is home to where two rivers meet - Nam Khan and Mekong, which as locals believe is sacred.
The act of kindness and giving is something every human should have already learned but being at the Tak Bat taught me something so profound that many years after, I am still reminded of the essence of giving, that the more you give, the ‘wealthier’ you become. The act of giving should be mundane that it becomes a norm. My encounter with the monks that morning reminded me of why I travel in the first place and why I started my blog, to share my stories and what those stories meant to me. I probably was the one who gave something to them but it felt like I gained more, even in silence.
Luang Prabang was once a French colony leaving marks in their architecture and the general look of the streets of Luang Prabang. But still, the South East Asian vibe is a strong hold where Buddhism has been the center of the Laotian faith.
Later that morning I continued to bike aimlessly down the streets, passing by temples and cafes, shops and a lot of hostels at every corner, smiling at travelers and locals, feeling the fresh wind brushing through my cheeks until the sound of our stomach started to take our attention away from the spellbinding beauty that surrounded us.
We soon reached Khem Khong Restaurant and was offered their authentic Laotian menu. If the affordable yet appetising menu wasn’t enough, the experience dining right next to the Mekong River, the life of Indochina, truly sealed the deal.
Also a good way to relax is to hop one of the cafes and bars, there's quite a number of some really interesting places to hang out over a cup of drink or a local beer and you'd see a number of people just talking to each other, reading a book or just absorbing how time flies so slow. Soon checked the famous Lao Lao Garden which was so inviting I couldn’t help myself from taking a cheeky little nap right after parking my bike outside.
Climbing up Mount Phousi introduced me to understanding Buddhism more with statues of Buddhas nested along the route to the the peak of the hill.
The sun was high, the weather was humid and it was a fairly short but tiring climb to the top. However, the view of Luang Prabang up the hill was worth it. Two young monks playfully ran past me enjoying the view as if it was their first time to witness it themselves. They didn’t seem to need all the toys or other material wealth some other children may have enjoyed, but to them, this was enough and life was beautiful.
If there's one thing I regret it is not spending enough time in Luang Prabang. Its not as probably not as popular or busy as the typical tourist destinations, but it is one of the meaningful trips you could have. More than tourists, Luang Prabang appeals to the travelers seeking for a moment to pause from the typical hustle and bustle. A kind of holiday that enriches the mind, rejuvenates the body and appreciate life’s basics.
Luang Prabang gets the least social media attention but ironically, everybody seems to be so much more connected with each other here while being disconnected from the outside world. There’s this predominant backpacker vibe across the town yet it doesn’t necessarily limit you to being one. Rather, it helps create that environment of warmth to the already warm nature of the town and its people.